What is the difference between sheepskin and shearling?

Shearling and sheepskin are essentially the same natural material: the skin of a sheep or lamb, tanned with the wool still attached. A lamb is simply a young sheep. The difference lies in the traditional meaning of “shearling”, how the words are used today, and the age and character of the skin itself.

Why two names for the same material?

A skin merchant we have worked with for many years puts it quite simply: shearling is a posher name for sheepskin. In fashion, there is some truth in that. “Shearling” is often used for clothing and accessories, while “sheepskin” is familiar from rugs, slippers and flying jackets.

But the word has a more specific origin. Cambridge Dictionary defines a shearling as a sheep between one and two years old that has been shorn once. Traditionally, it refers to a young animal around the yearling stage, rather than a fully mature sheep.

That does not mean every skin sold as shearling comes from a lamb under one year old. The traditional definition and the broader use of the word in fashion do not always match.

How does a younger skin differ?

The distinction that matters to us as designers and makers is how the skin feels and behaves.

A lamb generally produces a smaller skin, with finer, softer leather that is lighter and more supple to wear. A mature sheep usually produces a larger skin with thicker leather, which can make the finished piece heavier.

The wool may also be coarser on an older animal, although this is not always the case. Breed, the individual skin and the tannery’s selection and processing all influence the result. Age alone does not determine softness or quality.

These differences help explain why some skins suit fluid clothing and accessories, while others work well for more substantial pieces or home products.

One skin, two surfaces

The wool and leather in genuine shearling remain naturally connected. The wool is not a separate lining added to the leather.

The skin side can be finished as soft suede or smooth nappa leather. This gives us two different surfaces to work with, and is central to the reversible designs in our collection.

Faux shearling and shearling-effect fabrics imitate the appearance of this material. Check the composition: the product name alone does not confirm that it is genuine shearling/sheepskin. Beware, there are a surprising amount of retailers selling synthetic faux shearling as the real thing.

What we use at Gushlow & Cole

We select fine-quality lambskins for our shearling clothing and accessories, choosing each for its weight, softness, wool texture and how it will work in a particular design.

We work with Merino, Curly Merino, Toscana and Mongolian and Lacon, each bringing a different character to a finished piece.

You can explore the shearling materials we use in our materials guide.

All of our shearling is a by-product of the food industry; the animals are not farmed for their pelts. Our approach to sourcing, designing and making is explained in our guide to Responsible Shearling.

For us, the important question is how well the material has been selected, initially by the tannery, and then in our workshop for the piece it becomes. That is what shapes the look and feel of the shearling coats and accessories we make in our Kent workshop.

Interested in finding our more about the materials we use? Read more below.